Blog posts containing 101 superlatives, compliments and sickly sweet words of praise can often be a bit nauseating. But now I'm stuck, Les Terrasses de Soubeyran deserves every one of those compliments and more... so I will apologise now to those of you who like an edgy or sarcastic blog post, this post will be none of those things. It is quite simply a gushy flow of compliments, and quite frankly, it would be a sin to write anything less.
One of the many lovely green spaces to take a moment at Les Terrasses de Soubeyran.... and off camera to the right is a wide-spanning view across the vineyards and rolling hills beyond.
This bed and breakfast sits at the foot of Gordes, a beautiful honey coloured hill-top town, only a 20 minute walk away through winding paths surveying stunning views of the Luberon countryside. The ascent is fairly steep, but there are plenty of olive groves and wild-flower fields in which to rest your head if you need a pause.
It just had to be done!
Pascal and Eric are the most natural hosts I have ever come across, making you feel instantly incredibly welcome and at ease, chatting over breakfast in their bright and airy kitchen (with jaw dropping views from the full height glass doors... or from their terrace if the weather's right - which it almost always is!) and supplying endless gems of local knowledge (
Au Fil du Temps was Pascal's recommendation, see blog post
here).
Most holiday makers, us included, arrive feeling more than a little fatigued (though this was slightly alleviated by travelling by Eurostar all the way to the south, rather than going by car or plane - Avignon TGV is the closest station). Here however, any hint of weariness or stress instantly falls away, we sat on the sunny terrace with Pascal, freshly pressed orange juices in our hands, chatting and feeling the sun on our faces (something I don't seem to have experienced in months, my fellows Brits will understand!)
The actual property is perfectly laid out, the main house (honey coloured limestone of course) sits slightly above, surrounded by sunny terraces where you can take your breakfast or aperitif. A short path, edged by lavender and rosemary plants, leads you to three smaller properties (L'Atelier and Le Cube are closest together, La Grange sits at the other side of the main house - but nowhere feels either too isolated or too close). There is a communal kitchen and mini library attached to L'Atelier, with another sunny terrace out front. My parents stayed in L'Atelier and I had Le Cube, so we often cooked in this area and ate outside... or if it was a little chillier we would eat indoors - the majority of the frontage was glass, so you could still drink in the breathtaking views. Le Cube was my favourite room as it had so much glass (reflective though, so you still had privacy and it didn't get too hot like a greenhouse), even my shower had a little window to look out onto the vineyards below.
Filet Mignon du Porc - cooked in the communal kitchen with ingredients from Goult.
The front of L'Atelier and the communal kitchen
Staying at Les Terrasses de Soubeyran is the opposite to a Ryan Air flight: (let me explain...) With Ryan Air, you are fearful even to use the toilet or take a drink in case they charge you; whereas with Pascal and Eric, you have no such worry, and are regularly treated to thoughtful extras 'on the house'. We arrived to a complimentary bottle of wine and some tapenandes and dips in the fridge for our first evening.... the next day we came home to a warm plate of lemon madeleines (yes, they were truly divine, and I will be trying the recipe very soon)... and a couple of days later we were greeted by a bottle of
Rosé just because the sun was shining.
Breakfast was equally generous, wonderful individual pottery pieces adorned the table, filled with yoghurts, fruit, local honeys and unusual jams. Baskets also sat filled with incredible fresh croissants and breads from the local baker in Goult. Pascal quickly remembered our preferences and soon we were greeted by our drinks of preference without needing to ask. Little extras also appeared, a wonderful hazelnut cake joined the table on Tuesday, silky scrambled eggs were cooked for us on Sunday... each day brought something a little different, and it was always delicious. Another french couple joined us part way through the week and they sat with us on the same kitchen table, all chatting (including our hosts) in french/english - depending on who was trying out their foreign language! At most hotels, you would say little more than hello to your fellow guests, but that's just the magic of Pascal and Eric, they create such a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere where such things seem commonplace.
It is always difficult returning home after a holiday, but after a week at Les Terrasses de Soubeyran, it felt almost impossible. If Peter Mayle received half the welcome we did, I can see why he moved here.
Gordes