Just one of Baths' many pretty buildings (this one is on Henrietta Street - at the little roundabout on Great Pultney Street, as you head towards the bridge and the centre).
I've never really been one for big tourist sites: In Rome, I'd rather queue for gelato than a tour bus; and in Paris, I'd prefer to seek out the best croissant than scale the Eiffel Tower. Some may say I've got it all wrong, what's the point in going on a city break if you don't have some suitably touristy snaps to prove you were there? Well for me, I find that you miss the city if you spend your limited holiday in tourist lines and following umbrellas... I want to simply wander, soak up the atmosphere and the flavours.
That being said, I cannot claim to be the next great discoverer, I do seek recommendations when I go on city breaks - I like to plan a start point and then mooch from there... otherwise I have a slight habit of wandering about in the wrong places. With that in mind, I decided to write this 24hrs in Bath post, my recommendations for how to spend that disorientating first day - then once you've found your feet, you can explore on your own. Equally if you're only going for one night, you could quite happily just follow this plan, or have it as a back up if your own wanderings go awry.
2pm
Check in at The Windsor Guest House and collect your parking permit if you've travelled by car (£12/day - on street parking, usually max stay 2hrs for non-permit holders). This hotel is the perfect base, on Great Pultney Street, it's setting is beautiful and barely a 2 minute walk over the river to the centre. The rooms are really clean and comfy, it's not quite as personal as a little family run 2 bedroom B&B, but the staff are friendly and you get all the perks of a small hotel.
2.30pm
Having dropped your bags and orientated yourself, it's time to explore. Book in for dinner at Same Same But Different, it's always nice to know that the end of your day is sorted. As you walk over Pultney Bridge to the centre of town, you'll pass Blue Quail's Deli - start as you mean to go on with a slice of homemade cake or a light lunch. Run by husband and wife team Peter and Glenda Botes, you'll find an aray of tempting deli treats to ogle at whilst you sample their delicious bakes.
Wander from here into the centre town - Upper Borough Walls Road, Queen Street and New Bond Street are great for mooching in and out of lovely shops. The Royal Crescent is only a short walk away if you fancy acting out 'Who will buy?' from Oliver.
6pm
Pop back to the hotel to change, or stay out if you're just having too much fun. Then head out for dinner at Same Same But Different - an award-winning small daytime cafe, which serves sophisticated but well-priced and unpretentious food in the evenings. Their balsamic glazed pan fried calves livers with mash were particularly stunning, and the thick triple-cooked chips with garlic aioli were the best I've tasted to date (served with the organic burger). The desserts menu was small but well thought out, the gran-marnier chocolate tart oozed out a glossy chocolate sauce - the taste of orange liqueur was barely noticeable, but I thought that this was a good thing - the alcohol aided the silky texture, rather than overpowering the flavour. For the two of us, including a glass of wine and bread and oils to start (this was my only quibble, bread had to be ordered separately - but I soon forgot this little complaint) our bill came to £37.50.
8am the next day (or earlier/later depending on how you feel - it is a holiday after all!)
Head down for continental breakfast at the hotel (included in the £109 room rate). We avoided paying extra for cooked breakfast as we knew we'd be sampling futher treats throughout the morning. Continental was ordered form a menu, with a selection of juices, cereals, toasts and compotes. I went for orange juice (definitely not from concentrate I'm pleased to say), dorset cereals muesli, natural yoghurt and a homemade fruit compote.
Head out again into the centre, we got waylaid on route at the Oxfam shop on the bridge - more like a boutique than a charity shop - we came away with a fab shabby chic lantern/vase for £3.99 - almost identical to one I'd seen for £50 in a far more 'I saw you coming' type boutique.
10am
Pop into the Bertinet Bakery on New Bond Street (the cafe, not the cookery school) to peruse over their wonderful selection of fresh breads and pastries. Head upstairs to the airy, big-windowed cafe to sample some with a coffee. Cookery classes are also offered at his cookery school - something for a longer stay perhaps (advance booking is essential).
For further wandering, Milsom Street houses plenty of better-know stores in pretty honey-coloured buildings. However, Milsom Place hosts some smaller shops such as The Salcombe Trading Company, where you can find some lovely interior design treats, or at least some inspiration.
1pm
On pretty, cobbled Queen Street, you will come across a colourful bike outside a little cafe called Wild Cafe - I urge you to go in. Well thought out salads such as Wood Pigeon with roast beetroot and garlic are highly recommended, but they also have a heartier lunch/dinner menu including dishes such as Roast Lamb with Puy lentils. The setting is relaxed and informal (but clean - these attributes sadly don't always go hand in hand!) and their brunch menu looks equally delicious if you're still in the breakfast mood (the maple and bacon pancake stack had me salivating). A selection of cakes (made in house) is also worth being tempted over - why not, you are on holiday after all.
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